Saturday, June 03, 2006

Traditional clothing

The Korean costume is called hanbok.. It is characterized by simple lines and no pockets.. The women's hanbok comprise a wrap skirt and a bolero-like jacket, and the men's, roomy pants bound at the ankles and a short jacket.. Hanbok are worn by Koreans of all ages, particularly on traditional holidays and when attending social affairs having a Korean overtone.. Some of the basic elements of today is hanbok, namely the jacket (chogori) and pants (paji), were probably worn at a very early date, but it was not until the Three Kingdoms period that the two-piece costume of today began to evolve.. Short, tight trousers and tight, waist-length jackets were worn by both men and women during the early part of the period as evidenced by ancient tomb paintings.. Toward the end of the Three Kingdoms period, T¡¯ang China introduced Koreans to silk mandarin robes and they were adopted for wear by royalty and officials.. Noblewomen began to wear full-length skirt-trousers and wide-sleeved, hip-length jackets belted at the waist and noblemen began to wear roomy trousers bound in at the ankles and a narrow, tunic-style jacket cuffed at the wrists and belted at the waist..


Chogori and Ch'ima Chogori for females have changed over time more than those for males.. The earliest versions went all the way to the hips and were tied at the waist.. By the late Chosun Dynasty (1392-1910), they only went as far as the arm pits, with a longer front panel to cover the breasts.. Dongchong (detachable paper collars) help accent the woman's neck.. Like the men's version, they are tied across the chest in front with a bow.. The ch'ima is a rectangular or tubular skirt with a high, pleated waistband.. It is tied above the breasts with long sashes.. By flowing over the rest of the body, it completely hides the female shape, strongly influenced by the Confucian society.. Like the wide-legged paji for males, the billowing ch'ima allows a great deal of freedom for squatting, the preferred position when doing most household chores..
*Durumagi
A durumagi is worn over regular clothes for warmth during cold weather.. Although originally worn by government officials and royalty as everyday attire, commoners began wearing them for special occasions..
*Gat-chogori
A gat-chogori was slightly bigger than an average chogori, but had rabbit fur lining the inside to keep the body warm.. The outside layer was made of silk.. ChangotNoble class females of the late Chosun Dynasty (1392-1910) wore a changot to cover their face and upper body whenever they went out in public. Similar to the ssukae ch'ima worn by women of lower classes.. Hiding the face created a mysterious look..
*Ssukae Ch'imaWomen wore this cloak-like clothing during the Chosun Dynasty (1392-1910) whenever they went out in public.. Although shaped like a ch'ima, it was about 30 centimeters shorter and somewhat narrower.. Depending on the season, it either had two layers or was patched with cotton.. The white collar could be pinched in to hide ones face when a male approached..
*UndergarmentsWomen would sometimes wear several layers of undergarments. Sok ch'ima (similar to petticoats) helped give a female's hanbok a fuller appearance..